1999 Meursault “Clos de la Barre”, Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Burgundy, France


1 in stock


Roving Sommelier is passionate about premium quality French regional wines. For most wine lovers, Dominique Lafon, who is based at his eponymous Burgundian estate, Domaine des Comtes Lafon in Meursault is one of the best producers of Chardonnay, not only in France, but in the world. In addition, Dominique Lafon is regarded as one of the truest exponents of biodynamic winemaking, and arguably produces the most expressive and purest Burgundian Chardonnays. He has devoted his life’s work and efforts to this most interesting of grape varieties. His most famous wines are his single vineyard Meursaults, which are complex masterpieces and testaments to a special piece of land in the Côte de Beaune. Although he does produce a little Pinot Noir (mainly in nearby Volnay-Santenots and Monthelie), most of Dominique Lafon’s wines are produced from Chardonnay and are biodynamically farmed. For me, a wine made under Dominque Lafon’s label will always be near the top of any Burgundy lovers’ bucket list. He also has winemaking projects in Macon and Oregon.

He took over winemaking responsibilities and running the estate from his father in 1987. However, it was only in 1993 that he managed to take overall control of his vineyards, of which he had an excellent clutch of some highly prized parcels in Burgundy. The Domaine became organic in 1995 and has been biodynamic since 1998. Lafon admits he is not clear why biodynamism works, but in his experience it does. It means that he must accept a certain level of disease such as mildew, but maladies are common in Burgundy anyway. some claim that vines farmed biodynamically develop a resistance to disease, but Lafon is sceptical and finds little evidence of that.

Where Lafon excels is in maintaining the typicity of each of his crus. Other than the use of new oak, there is little variation in winemaking techniques. Typicity can vary according to vintage but the “Clos de la Barre”, a Meursault village wine, is quite robust and serious, while the “Charmes Premier Cru” is rounder and more seductive, yet not lacking in backbone. The Premiers Crus of “Genevrières” and “Perrières” show more grip and overt minerality.

Once opened, wines made in this way continue to improve – and are in no way oxidised.

Open half an hour in advance or carafe the wine. Serve at 14°C. You may find it unusual to decant or carafe a white wine. However, it will benefit a full-flavoured and complex wine such as this. Best enjoyed in a convivial atmosphere. This is my last bottle and I would like it to go to a good home.

Alcohol: 13.5% abv (75cl)

Closure: Cork

Grape variety: Chardonnay

Flavour Profile: Dry, Highly aromatic, Complex, Golden colour, Baked apple, Citrus, Beeswax, Floral, Mineral