Roving Sommelier is passionate about premium quality Australian regional wines. Moss Wood first came onto my wine radar back in the early 1990s when I was getting into iconic Aussie wines, and I have followed them passionately ever since.

Moss Wood was planted in the Margaret River sub-region of Wilyabrup in 1969 by Bill Pannel and was one of the first wineries established in an area at the time unknown for wine. Keith Mugford, a Roseworthy graduate, was employed as winemaker in 1979 and went on, with his wife Clare, to buy the property from Bill in 1985. Recognised early on as one of the finest wines in the continent, the Cabernet Sauvignon held the top ‘outstanding’ rating in the first Langton’s classification of Australian wine made in 1991 and remains one of only five Cabernets to be rated ‘Exceptional’ in the latest classification.

The estate vineyard is just under 12 hectares in size with sandy and gravelly loam soils, whilst the 6.34-hectare Ribbon Vale vineyard, purchased in 2000 and located a few hundred metres to the south, has pure gravel loam soils over clay. Beyond the flagship Cabernet Sauvignon, there is an equally impressive range, encompassing five wines from the Ribbon Vale vineyard, alongside a powerful Semillon, a rich and elegant Chardonnay and a (rare for Margaret River) Pinot Noir, made from vines planted in the 1970s. Winemaking is traditional, with hand harvesting, relatively long macerations and ageing of most of the wines in French oak. The Chardonnay is fermented in barrel, whilst the Pinot Noir is made in small open top fermenters with hand plunging of the cap. After experimenting in the 1980s with barrel fermenting the Semillon, for over 20 years now Keith has made this wine in stainless steel. The Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon does see some older French oak, having six months ageing in barrel. Over the past few years, Hugh and Tristan Mugford have joined their parents at the estate, ensuring its family continuity.

2021 Moss Wood Semillon is best enjoyed served chilled and in a convivial atmosphere. The wine is ready to drink now, but also has great cellaring potential for up to ten years from vintage, where it will continue to develop complex aromatic flavours.